Travels up north

With a set of saddle bags, three maps, and a new 4$ pair of rayban sunglasses we set off on our Honda motobike to explore the less beaten trails of the north. We opted for a little more engine and upgrated to a 125cc; think scooter, not motorcycle. And for those who were worried, yes, we wore helmets as it is a national law, enforced by fines and confiscation of one's bike for two months. For the first 100km we suffered through the pollution and gritty roads that surround Hanoi until we reached the beautiful mountain roads we set off for. We stopped for a night 180km directly north in Bac Kan, and the next day rode a bit shorter to Ba Be Naitonal Park. Bypassing the expensive and obnoxious tours, we hired a local to putter us around Ba Be lake in his skinney boat. Surrounding us were stilt villages, caves, and untamed jungles that are denser and deeper than what you could ever imagine. Our third day we drove steeper mountain roads through small agrarian villages and gorgeous scenery, arriving in our northern most destination, Cao Bang. We explored Cao Bang's War memorial, backroads, and markets. The next day was another spectacular drive, southeast, to Lang Son. This town was set among tall, jungly limestone mountains- one of which we almost got lost in walking through a seemingly neverending cave. Finally, on the fifth day we made our way back to Hanoi on more industrial roads to complete our 700km scooter journey.

This trip was special for us due to the lack of tourist development in the North. In the areas we have traveled so far, Vietnam and it's people have picked up on the influx of Westerners- for better and worse. Vietnamese aren't hostile towards tourists, but will often go to great lenghts to get their money. Our relationship with vietnamese people so far have often been based a bit more around haggling, money, and tourism (though there have been exceptions). However, as we escaped tourism up north we were allowed to have much more meaningful relationships with the Vietnamese people and the land.

In Cao Bang, we were adopted by a guy our age. He told us he wanted to take us out for a drink and talk to us, explaining that we were the first foreigners he had ever seen in Cao Bang. He seemed honored that we went out with him, and as hard as i tried to shove my money at the cashier, he would not have it. He explained that in Vietnam, if we are invited for a drink, we do not pay. On our way to Lang Son we stopped at a familys house/restaraunt for a royal lunch. It was clear that this family had never had foreigners in their place before, and they treated us with extreme care and curiousity. As we consumed our soup, coffee, and bread, they hovered and giggled. Again, they refused my tip, charging the bare minimum for the food. And the entire family stood, smiling and waving as we departed on Moss (our moto). These were the type of interactions which were common on our trip north, and completely invaluable.

The land up north is said to be the most beautiful in Vietnam and we could see why. I will omit the impossibe task of describing the scene verbally and try to get out pictures asap. It was clear, though, that motoring eye level at 25mph was the best way to see the landscape.

Things we learned:
1. Every school-aged kid will jump and yell hello as you pass by
2. Smile at people and you will recieve one twice as big
3. When in doubt, always get off the bike, look around, talk to people, and your bound to have an interesting experience

J + L